Flogger and Horse instructions


Super easy, Super cheap Flogger

What You Need

* A skipping rope with wooden handles
* Rat tail cord (From the dollar store It comes in five meter lengths)
* A non-toxic felt tip marker
* A subs bottom (You'll have to find this one on your own)

What To Do

1. Unscrew the skipping rope handles, untie the knots in each end of the rope and remove the handles from the rope.
2. Take the rat tail cord. Decide what length you want the floggers tails to be and cut 15 to 20 pieces of cord to that length
3. Gather all the pieces together and tie a knot as close to one of the ends as possible.
4. Now to put the flogger together take the hollow part of one of the skipping rope handles and thread the flogger's tails through the hole so that the knot sits in the hollow.
5. Push the knot as far inside the handle as possible and screw the two parts of the handle together. You can glue it together with PVA if you need to.

Improvements

If you prefer hearing screams of pain from your sub rather then soft moans of pleasure you can make the flogger heavier in some of the following ways...
* Substitute the cord with Horsehair, Hair extensions, or Human Hair, Leather shoelaces, or long lantern wicks
* To make the flogger a little heavier tie knots into the end of each tail.
* To make the flogger allot heavier tie beads onto the ends. Beads with about a 3mm hole are good.
* If your a truly sadistic bastard you could always tie metal fragments onto the tails.

* If you are completely insane instead of cord use barbed wire (I personally don't recommend this)




Super easy Spanking Horse Instruction

It's inexpensive to build and you can easily take it apart and store it in the closet or under the bed when not in use. The spanking sawhorse is a very effective tool to use on your partner because, if constructed properly, you can put them on it for an extended period of time and you can use it in a variety of ways

make a trip to the hardware store or lumberyard (Lowe's or Home Depot should have everything on the list except for the fabric) where you need to pick up the following items:

Supply List
1 Package of Sawhorse Brackets
4 - 30" long 2x4's
1 - 38" long 2x4
12 - medium size screw-in eye bolts
1 Can Flat Black Spray Paint
3' piece Foam Padding
3' piece of Black Vinyl Fabric

Before you begin to construct the sawhorse, let's discuss the supply's listed above. the black plastic sawhorse brackets are lightweight, black in color and easy to assemble and disassemble and brackets that would allow different width's of the top board. The sawhorse bracket (which can be purchased at Lowe's) is perfect

The four 30" long 2x4's are specifically for the legs of the sawhorse and can be any length that you desire. Whatever size you select, be it 24", 30", 36" or more, will determine the height of the sawhorse and ultimately how high the person is that is placed on the sawhorse. A tall person might prefer a longer leg - say about a 36" because that would put the sawhorse high enough to work on the submissive without having to bend over and put a strain on your back. A shorter person might prefer shorter legs, say 24" or so. You can actually make them any height you want or have multiple heights if you prefer, but you'll need four of each height you choose. If you want, you can cut these yourself or have them cut to size at the lumber yard. The quality of the wood is not important since you will be painting over it anyway.

The top piece is the board that goes across the top of the sawhorse from one sawhorse bracket to another. We have selected a 2" x 4" - 38" long board, but again you can customize it to any length you desire. Most females are between five and six foot tall so if you're using your sawhorse for females only, than a 38" board should work out OK. A good way to tell is to measure your subject while on all fours (doggy style) from the tip of their head to the roundest point of the buttocks. To that number add a 6 extra inches on each end of the board for movement and to that add 4 inches for attaching to the sawhorse brackets. So then if they measure 30" from head to tail and you add 6" for subject movement and 4" for attaching to the brackets, you end up with a 40" board (30"+6"+4"=40"). Also, please note that you will need to drill a hole 2" from each end of the board so that your top board can house the bolt that will attach to the sawhorse brackets on each end..

IT IS IMPORTANT to remember that you'll need sawhorse brackets that accept different widths of the top board. If you click on the photo of the sawhorse bracket box above you will see that they advertise that you can use a 4", 6" or 12" wide top board. The reason this is important is that wider boards are more comfortable for longer play times and for people who are carrying more weight. The heaver the person, the more uncomfortable a narrow board can be so you want to purchase sawhorse brackets that will accept multiple widths of top boards. Also, if you turn your subject around and have them lay back on the top of the sawhorse, a wider board is much safer. Keep in mind, the more comfortable your subject, the longer they will want to stay on the sawhorse. Whatever discomfort they may feel, should be that which is administered AFTER they are positioned on the sawhorse.

The only thing you need to consider about the eye bolts is that they be the type that have wood screw threads on one end so that you can easily screw them into the legs of your sawhorse. And of course, the can of flat black spray paint is so that you can paint the raw wood you're using in the project. Also, you'll need to purchase a small piece of sponge foam carpet padding - something about 3' wide and the width of the padding. So you may end up with a piece 3'wide by 50" long depending upon the width of the roll of padding. This stuff is very inexpensive so pick up a nice thick piece.

In addition to the hardware store trip, you'll also need to make a stop at a fabric store. Here you will purchase the black vinyl fabric for covering the top board. Again like padding, this comes in a fixed roll width (say 40" wide) and your option is how wide a piece you want them to cut for you (say 3' wide) so you may end up with a piece that's 3' x 40" or so. The cost for the vinyl fabric can be purchased for around $5.00 and is enough to do top boards in various sizes.


Step One


The first thing we need to do is paint our sawhorse legs which should already be cut to size. We took a cardboard box and cut it in half and placed the legs across the two box pieces as shown on the left. We did this outside because the spray paint can make a mess if you do it indoors. Spray first one side and the edges and then when it dries to the touch, spray the other side. Keep in mind it's better to spray twice than put on so much that the paint runs down the wood.

Step Two

After you paint the legs, you will need to paint the top board. However, since the fabric is going to cover most of the board, it only needs to be sprayed on each end about a third of the way into the board. Once all of your boards are dry, you'll want to put the fabric on your board. First, get our your stapling gun and wrap foam padding around the board as shown on the photo on left side. Staple a line of staples into the to board leaving about six inches unstapled on each end of the board..

Step Three

Next, wrap the foam padding around the board until the padding meets up with the side that it already attached then cut the padding so that the two sides butt together. Staple the remaining foam padding (except for about six inches from each end. The reason you're leaving an unstapled area on each end is because you will need to tuck the black vinyl under the foam on each end. Use a heavy duty staple gun because long staples are needed.

*for more padding use a 1" or thicker piece of seat cushion foam on top as well.

Step Four

Now begins the finish part. Place the black fabric so that it fits around the padded board and cut the length of the fabric about six inches longer than the padding on the board. Lay the fabric under the foam padding and fold it around to the back side as shown on photo at left side. Note that the seems of the foam padding and the fabric both attach at the bottom of the board. Center the fabric so that you have three extra inches on each end. Carefully fold the extra fabric and tuck it beneath the foam padding. Repeat the tucking on the other end of the padding.

Step Five

Step Five is attaching the vinyl/leather fabric to the board. After you've folded and tucked the end pieces, bring together to two long pieces of black fabric so that each sides butt's up against the other side. If needed trim the fabric to fit snuggly against each other. DO NOT OVERLAP THE TWO PIECES OF FABRIC. When you're satisfied with the fit, begin stapling each side to the board. At this point, you are stapling through both the fabric and the padding, so you will need a reasonably long staple. Once stapling is completed, simply follow sawhorse bracket instructions to finish putting your piece together. Website hosting and domain registration powered by DomainNameSanity.com